Litho cut for a friend

Gallery for images of work cut using PhotoVCarve
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ChrisAlb
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 2:58 am
Model of CNC Machine: CAMaster Stinger I

Litho cut for a friend

Post by ChrisAlb »

Here is a litho I made for a friend. I used Photo VCarve and VCarve Pro and used the carving process identified by 'tonydude919 in thread http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14355.

My desire was to make the frame as thin as possible. I used a 1.25" thick piece of Mahogany that started off at 11" x 14". The frame after cut out, was approx 9.25" x 12". In summary, the frame was made with the following VCarve Pro toolpaths:

Back of Litho frame:

- Cut out center (picture viewing area) via a 2D Profile toolpath.
- Cut a 1" deep opening via a Pocketing toolpath (.75" EM) just slightly larger than the size of my 8" x 10" Corian material.
- Cut a .25" wide lip .125" deep on the top of the pocketed area to support the back panel.
- Cut a .25" wide by 1" long by .875" deep opening along bottom inside of pocketed area to support the power connector and on/off swith.

Front of Litho frame:

- Cut out design elements via a .25" 60D VB toolpath configured for a flat depth of .125".
- Cut out frame using a profile toolpath via a .25 EM.

The following material / components were purchased to support the build out:

For the lighting I used flexible LED light strips:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QQ ... 00_s00_i00

I used surface mount anodized aluminum LED profile housing to house the LED strip. (I will find a cheaper solution going forward..)
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/ ... xible.html

For a light diffuser, I used the diffuser sheets from Inventables. SKU 23114-01
https://www.inventables.com/technologie ... user-films

For the power plug terminal, I used a Radio Shack (Size N) Panel mount coaxial DC Power plug.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2102489

For the on/off switch, I used a Radio Shack SPST 3-Amp Push on-Push off switch. While I used this switch, I am still looking for a lower profile switch that has a long enough ‘threaded neck’ to screw into frame…
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062544

For the DC power supply, I used 12V DC brick from Amazon.com (another item where I will find something cheaper next time. Amperage requirements for the length of LED strip that I needed is only about 250ma, so the 4A power supply is overkill)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WJ ... 00_s01_i03

Assembly consisted of:

Drill the two holes needed for 5.5mm power connector and on/off switch . I selected a hole size where I could just screw in the connectors into the opening. Do not insert the power connector and switch at this time. Make sure you drill the holes so they clear the depth of your ‘installed’ Corian material with margin. (approx. .550” from front face)

Insert Corian into pocketed opening.

Insert the diffuser sheet on top of Corian.

Install 3 strips of the anodized housing (cut to size) to the inside pocketed opening via double faced carpeting tape. Effectively, this will hold down the Corian material.

Solder necessary lead wires to the power connector, LED strip, and the on/off switch. Some of this solder work can be done while the components are outside of the frame, others have to be done after they are inserted.

Install the 5.5mm power terminal and the on/off switch. Based on the bit you used to drill the holes it could be a tight fit. You might need to use a sanding stick to slightly enlarge the openings.

Cut to size and peel back the adhesive backing from LED strip and apply to the 3 sides of anodized housing. Do not attempt to make a sharp turn on the corners of the frame. You could damage the flexible strip. A gentle curve around the corners are ok.

Solder remaining connections needed to complete DC circuit. Remember, these are diodes and there is a positive and negative connection. The strip will have a + and a – to identify. When you wire it up, note where the + and – is at on your 5.5mm power connector and wire it up accordingly.

Cut the back panel to fit the opening created. Material used for back panel should be approx. .125” thick. After fitting, drill holes near edges and screw it down with #4, .5” wood screws. Your litho will be brighter if you use a panel that has an inside that reflects light. You can use Masonite, but you might want to paint the inside back of the panel white.

After complete, I used a folding book holder to hold the frame…

Chris
Attachments
Picture of LED strip and light housing, and power connector on outside of frame
Picture of LED strip and light housing, and power connector on outside of frame
Picture of wiring for on/off switch
Picture of wiring for on/off switch
Picture of frame with back attached
Picture of frame with back attached
Picture of Litho lit up.
Picture of Litho lit up.

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Ms Wolffie
Vectric Wizard
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Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2012 10:41 pm
Model of CNC Machine: Blue Elephant 1325, Shark HD Pro
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Re: Litho cut for a friend

Post by Ms Wolffie »

thank you so very much, just what I needed to know :P
Cheers
Wolffie
Cheers
Wolffie

Whatshammacallit
Cut3D, VCarvePro 6.5, Aspire4, PhotoVCarve, Corel Graphics Suite X6

Mick Martin
Vectric Craftsman
Posts: 270
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Model of CNC Machine: CAMaster 508 ATC + Rotary
Location: Snohomish, WA
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Re: Litho cut for a friend

Post by Mick Martin »

Chris,
I really nice looking project and a great tutorial/explanation ... thank you
Mick Martin
Aspire 4.015
http://mickmartinwoodworking.com/

tonydude919
Vectric Wizard
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Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 7:28 am
Model of CNC Machine: cnc mako shark ext bed with HD 5 gantry
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Re: Litho cut for a friend

Post by tonydude919 »

Chris,

Nice write up. Glad it worked out for you.

Tony
What will matter is not what you bought but what you built; not what you got, but what you gave

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Penman
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Posts: 146
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 10:58 am
Model of CNC Machine: Shopbot B 32 Alpha
Location: Blenheim. New Zealand

Re: Litho cut for a friend

Post by Penman »

Hi Chris,

want to thank you for a very well presented description of the steps you used. I have cut several Litho's and been pleased with the way they have turned out. As far as light box's go I have only made one. It was a lot of messing around and knowing exactly how to construct one, and what components to use, and where to get them was a bit daunting.
Thanks to your post, all has been explained.

Regards and cheers,

Roger.

ChrisAlb
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 2:58 am
Model of CNC Machine: CAMaster Stinger I

Re: Litho cut for a friend

Post by ChrisAlb »

Thanks for all the comments from everyone.

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