sewing table
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sewing table
Almost done with this table for my wife...just need pick out some knobs for the doors. With the exception of the back panel, the entire table is made from edge joined cherry boards from trees I took down and milled 13 years ago. I used aspire to carve the butterfly patterns on the doors, and v-carved smaller butterflies on the column of small drawer as well as to mortise the pockets for the table leaf hinges. The color is the natural color of the cherry, the finish is a sprayed on water based poly used for wood flooring...first time trying to spray the poly. Worked well, dries fast, sands easy and clean up of the spray gun was a easy.
Mike
Mike
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Re: sewing table
Mike,
That's a really nice looking sewing table. I like all the carving you did, that makes it very special. I'm sure your wife loves it and it will be a family air loom to be passed down.
Mark
That's a really nice looking sewing table. I like all the carving you did, that makes it very special. I'm sure your wife loves it and it will be a family air loom to be passed down.
Mark
Re: sewing table
Mike,
Very beautifull, your wife is one lucky lady. I am sure she will enjoy miles of stitching at such a comfortable workstation
Very beautifull, your wife is one lucky lady. I am sure she will enjoy miles of stitching at such a comfortable workstation
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Re: sewing table
Very nice, beautiful color and finish...joe
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Re: sewing table
Nice job. When all closed up, it makes a nice piece of furniture. Your wife must love it.
Angie
Angie
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Re: sewing table
Mike,
The finish looks really nice. What brand 'water based poly for floors' did you use? I have used MinWax Polycrylic brush-on water-based poly for years (and like it), but have not had much success with the spray (rattle can) version of the same stuff. Their rattle can version yields an orange-peel texture every time - doesn't level out like when I brush it on from their quart can. I still use the rattle can occasionally, but follow up with a brush to eliminate the orange-peel.
I've not tried spraying the poly with my spray gun, though. Seems like a 'flooring' formula would level out better when sprayed. At least it sure appears so on your sewing table project - nice-n-smooth finish!
The finish looks really nice. What brand 'water based poly for floors' did you use? I have used MinWax Polycrylic brush-on water-based poly for years (and like it), but have not had much success with the spray (rattle can) version of the same stuff. Their rattle can version yields an orange-peel texture every time - doesn't level out like when I brush it on from their quart can. I still use the rattle can occasionally, but follow up with a brush to eliminate the orange-peel.
I've not tried spraying the poly with my spray gun, though. Seems like a 'flooring' formula would level out better when sprayed. At least it sure appears so on your sewing table project - nice-n-smooth finish!
Michael Tyler
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Re: sewing table
Michael,
I've had similar results. I think the rattle cans have a higher "flash" reducer added to them, for home use - quick dry, whatever,
Way better shooting it through your gun,,,
I've had similar results. I think the rattle cans have a higher "flash" reducer added to them, for home use - quick dry, whatever,
Way better shooting it through your gun,,,
Ron Sloan
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Re: sewing table
Thank you, Ron. Good to know I'm not the only one...I called the company a couple years ago asking "why the difference in finish quality between their spray can vs quart can".ssflyer wrote:Michael,
I've had similar results. I think the rattle cans have a higher "flash" reducer added to them, for home use - quick dry, whatever, Way better shooting it through your gun,,,
Basically, they listed of few of the obvious causes of orange-peel I should avoid...none of which I was guilty of. At the end of the conversation, there was no definitive solution but they did send me two more spray cans for free (I didn't ask for any replacement or comp at all, but thought it was really nice of them to do that).
I think your explanation about some type of added ingredient in the spray can nails the cause.
Michael Tyler
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Re: sewing table
Mike
I used the MinWax Polycrylic in a cup gun. It took me a few tries to get the spray pattern and the air pressure just right. Also, I sprayed early in the morning or late in the day when the temps were cooler.
I had originally purchased the sealer to seal my newly installed maple flooring. I followed the directions for application but in the end, the edge of each board cupped and I had to resand and go with the oil base poly. I called MinWax and sent them photos of the cupped boards...the young lady told me she shared the photos with her "associates" and they determined the boards cupped because I installed them "too tightly". She stated that when installing tongue and groove flooring you're supposed to leave a gap the thickness of a penny between each board. And all these years I've been installing tongue and groove flooring as tightly as I could...what was I thinking.
Mike
I used the MinWax Polycrylic in a cup gun. It took me a few tries to get the spray pattern and the air pressure just right. Also, I sprayed early in the morning or late in the day when the temps were cooler.
I had originally purchased the sealer to seal my newly installed maple flooring. I followed the directions for application but in the end, the edge of each board cupped and I had to resand and go with the oil base poly. I called MinWax and sent them photos of the cupped boards...the young lady told me she shared the photos with her "associates" and they determined the boards cupped because I installed them "too tightly". She stated that when installing tongue and groove flooring you're supposed to leave a gap the thickness of a penny between each board. And all these years I've been installing tongue and groove flooring as tightly as I could...what was I thinking.
Mike
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Re: sewing table
Hi Mike,
When I installed tongue and groove flooring I was told to leave a gap around the outer edge by the wall. This would allow some movement and its covered with the wall molding. I'm sure not an expert but the few floors I did are still ok after a lot of years.
Mark
When I installed tongue and groove flooring I was told to leave a gap around the outer edge by the wall. This would allow some movement and its covered with the wall molding. I'm sure not an expert but the few floors I did are still ok after a lot of years.
Mark
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Re: sewing table
Would this depend on whether the flooring was floating or not ?
Paul Rowntree
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Re: sewing table
Good point Paul. The floors I did were over concrete and all were floating.
Mark
Mark
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Re: sewing table
Mark...the way you installed your floor is the correct method, floating or not a space should be left along the outer edges. The rep from MinWax thought each board should have a space the width of a penny (on edge).
My flooring was unfinished 3/4 maple tongue and groove with a 1/2 inch space left around the perimeter. It's not a floating floor.
The floor came out nice once I went to the oil based poly...still looks good after 3 years.
I am, however, quite pleased with how the water base finish came out on the sewing cabinet.
Mike
My flooring was unfinished 3/4 maple tongue and groove with a 1/2 inch space left around the perimeter. It's not a floating floor.
The floor came out nice once I went to the oil based poly...still looks good after 3 years.
I am, however, quite pleased with how the water base finish came out on the sewing cabinet.
Mike
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Re: sewing table
Thanks for the additional info, Mike. I will definitely try spraying the poly through my own gun. Your result speaks for itself - looks great!
On the MinWax rep's suggestion that hardwood flooring should have penny-thick gaps...if I had an installer do that, he or she wouldn't get paid until he did it all over again with nice, attractive seams. I wonder what THEY were thinking!
Looking closely at my existing oak floor...I can't get a fingernail into the seams. The flooring is about 12 years old and we get wild variances in humidity here in south-coastal Georgia...no ill affect to the hardwood floor from any expansion/contraction that might be occuring.
On the MinWax rep's suggestion that hardwood flooring should have penny-thick gaps...if I had an installer do that, he or she wouldn't get paid until he did it all over again with nice, attractive seams. I wonder what THEY were thinking!
Looking closely at my existing oak floor...I can't get a fingernail into the seams. The flooring is about 12 years old and we get wild variances in humidity here in south-coastal Georgia...no ill affect to the hardwood floor from any expansion/contraction that might be occuring.
Michael Tyler
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Re: sewing table
Mike,
I have used water based minwax on several projects but I must admit I like the oil based products better. When I finished some kitchen cabinets with the water based minwax I had to be real careful not to get bubbles in the finish, I brushed it on. In the end it turned out pretty good just was not as easy to apply as the oil base. I sure like the clean up and the faster drying time though. I'm going to have to try spraying it but I need to get a good (inexpensive) HVLP system.
I told you in and a thread above that I really like your sewing cabinet. I like the way you did the drawers and the way the doors swing out of the way. The finish looks great.
I agree with what Michael said as well.
Mark
I have used water based minwax on several projects but I must admit I like the oil based products better. When I finished some kitchen cabinets with the water based minwax I had to be real careful not to get bubbles in the finish, I brushed it on. In the end it turned out pretty good just was not as easy to apply as the oil base. I sure like the clean up and the faster drying time though. I'm going to have to try spraying it but I need to get a good (inexpensive) HVLP system.
I told you in and a thread above that I really like your sewing cabinet. I like the way you did the drawers and the way the doors swing out of the way. The finish looks great.
I agree with what Michael said as well.
Mark